Cartier Curated: Century-old discoveries lead auction
A treasure trove of vintage Cartier jewels – many unseen for over a century – will go under the hammer in London this April as part of Lyon & Turnbull’s Cartier Curated auction.
By Rachael Taylor
A treasure trove of Cartier jewels are re-emerging this spring as Lyon & Turnbull prepares to unveil Cartier Curated – a landmark auction of vintage Cartier jewellery, watches, clocks and accessories – in London on 29th April, 2025.
Comprising more than 60 lots, the auction presents a remarkable cross-section of the maison’s 20th-century creativity. Many of the pieces have been tucked away in safes and drawers for generations.
The sale is perfectly timed to coincide with Cartier, Design: A Living Legacy, a major retrospective currently on view at the V&A in London, curated by renown jewellery editor Rachel Garrahan. The exhibition – Cartier’s first in the UK for almost 30 years – offers a comprehensive look at the house’s legacy of design, innovation and cultural influence. Together, the exhibition and auction offer an unprecedented moment for Cartier connoisseurs to experience the maison’s artistry in London.
Cartier Art Deco onyx and diamond cocktail watch, c.1910s, part of the Cartier Curated auction at Lyon & Turnbull.
Lyon & Turnbull, led by Sarah Duncan and Charles Tearle, has curated a sale in Cartier Curated that reflects Cartier’s breadth as a maker, from high jewellery masterpieces to elegant watches and charming objets d’art.
With pre-sale estimates ranging from less than £100 to more than £40,000 – and several pieces offered without reserve – the sale underscores Cartier’s unique position as both a symbol of refined luxury and an accessible heritage brand.
“It’s been such a thrill working with clients who are rediscovering their families’ treasures, locked away for decades and decades,” says Duncan. “We have a rare 1910 diamond bracelet, a French-cut sapphire bracelet, and an Art Deco diamond and onyx cocktail watch which have laid unworn in safes for a generation until they’ve emerged for this auction.
“The exhibition at the V&A showcases the finest of Cartier’s output but the Cartier family were ingenious in honing not just royalty as clients but understanding that individuals need luxury in their lives as well. Our Cartier Curated auction gives one the chance to own something made by ‘the king of jewellers’’.”
Top 5: Cartier Curated sale highlights
Aquamarine and diamond brooch, c.1935
Among the standout lots is an aquamarine and diamond brooch, circa 1935, originally purchased from Cartier by an English socialite with ties to author and aristocrat Vita Sackville-West. The brooch, an elegant example of Cartier’s interwar design sensibility, has remained in the same family ever since and is now being offered for public sale for the first time in nearly a century.
Art Deco onyx and diamond cocktail watch, c.1910s
Another notable discovery is an Art Deco onyx and diamond cocktail watch, dating to the 1910s. This striking monochrome timepiece has been passed down through the same family for more than 100 years. Its sleek lines and geometric accents speak to the aesthetic codes that made Cartier a pioneer of the Art Deco movement.
Sapphire and diamond line bracelets, c.1920
Estimate: £10,000–£15,000 each
Recently unearthed in a Scottish vault, a pair of sapphire and diamond line bracelets from circa 1920 exemplifies Cartier’s mastery of classic gemstone settings. These refined pieces—one rich in French-cut sapphires, the other in bright white diamonds—haven’t been worn in a generation and remain beautifully preserved.
Multi-gem and diamond floral brooch, c.1950
Equally captivating is a multi-gem and diamond floral brooch, circa 1950, which has remained in private hands for decades. Bursting with colour and vintage charm, the brooch highlights Cartier’s post-war flair for combining elegance with a playful, organic aesthetic.
Rectangular gold wristwatch, 1965
Also included in the sale is a rectangular gold wristwatch, purchased new at Cartier London in 1965. This minimalist yet timeless timepiece has remained in a private collection since its acquisition and is now being offered publicly for the very first time, appealing to the growing appetite for elegant, vintage Cartier watches.
Join Rachael Taylor and Lyon & Turnbull for a London lecture on Cartier on April 24, 2025. More details here
Main image: Cartier aquamarine and diamond brooch, c.1935, part of the Lyon & Turnbull Cartier Curated exhibition.
