Read on for an edit of the must-see products and trends at the London trade show.

By Rachael Taylor

With London trade exhibition the Jewellery Show just weeks away, the team asked me to check out the exhibitor list and create my edit of the products and companies I’m most excited to see at the event on September 20th and 21st, 2023.

This will be my first trip to the Jewellery Show, so just checking out the space and the event is a draw in itself.

As for what will be on display, I’ve created an edit that speaks to current trends in the market – from vintage revivals and men’s pearls, to permanent jewellery and even tooth jewels. I’ve also thrown in a few new designers to discover as a nod to my personal passion for contemporary design and supporting new talent.

Tooth gems by Tish Lyon

The piercing market continues apace – you only have to look at the expansion of chains like Astrid & Miyu for confirmation of that. What you might also notice if you’ve been keeping a close eye on this segment is the diversification into other areas, such as tattoos and permanent jewels. Could tooth gems be the next extension of this trend? Tish Lyon has already built up a strong collection of piercing jewels and has now released solid gold tooth gems, which can be applied (by a professional) directly to teeth using an adhesive.

Antique repro at R.E. Morrish

Do you follow as many antique jewellery dealers on Instagram as I do? If so, you’ll know this is a popular growth market – especially with younger consumers. Many stores are now building up pre-owned sections, but as the market becomes more competitive, finding the right styles in good condition can be difficult. A solution could be found at R.E. Morrish, which creates reproductions from Roman jewels through to Art Deco masterpieces.

Welded bracelets from Perma Jewel

Permanent jewellery is a huge trend right now. It’s been sweeping through the States, and has started popping up at stores in the UK. The concept is based on chains – either necklaces or bracelets – that are welded together with lasers once on the wrist or neck, eradicating the need for clasps. This a is a truly magical retail experience as it is done in store, and often attracts groups of friends, family or couples. Perma Jewel is a new launch from Goodman Bros that offers a full solution.

Men’s pearls by Lido Pearls

One of the most surprising – and widespread – runaway trends of the past year has been pearl necklaces for men. It started as a lofty high-fashion look on the likes of Harry Styles, but now it’s hard to walk the high street without seeing a guy with a string around his neck. Lido Pearls is tapping into this zeitgeist with a brand new collection just for men that will launch at the Jewellery Show.

Pearl collections at Sif Jakobs

For female-focused pearl collections, do check out Sif Jakobs. The introduction of pearls is relatively new for the Scandinavian brand, but founder Sif tells me they are flying. I especially love the graduated climbers worn higher up the ear that bring a real contemporary vibe that is essential for modern pearl styling.

Sensual silver at Georgia Wang

Georgia Wang is an emerging jewellery designer who has been picking up multiple award nominations. Her Yesterday’s Tomorrow collection is inspired by the heating and cooling of lava flows with dripping silver, with some sections plated with gold or black rhodium. Singer Ellie Goulding recently wore some earrings from this collection, and her Instagram post generated more than 40,000 likes.

Transformable earrings by Tvrrini

For a totally different creative take on lava, I give you the Lava collection by Tvrrini, the London-based brand created by designer Bibi Cheung. Textured gold is matched with gemstones to signify the dramatic moment lava hits the ocean. In these earrings, Cheung has wrapped trillion-cut citrines in soft rose gold and added detachable green turquoise drops. The drops can also be worn back-to-front, displaying a web of gold with a ruby at the centre, to create a third look.

Tactile metalwork from Elsa Mouzaki

Greek jewellery designer, and former Harper’s Bazaar art director, Elsa Mouzaki has created a collection that will delight anyone intrigued by textured metals – such as myself. The Eleusis gold vermeil collection is inspired by the pottery used during cult rituals in Ancient Greece, and has an intriguing, tactile texture that works beautifully with pink tourmaline.

Award-winning gem setting at Breuning

Another of the international designers I’m keen to see is Breuning. Many in the industry will know the German manufacturer for its bridal collections, but what I’m looking forward to experiencing is something a little more avant garde – its Andrea rings. These bands are a mastery of stone setting, and won the jeweller a Red Dot design award last year.

This article was written in partnership with the Jewellery Show

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