Shades of Italy

© Written by Rachael Taylor for Jewelry Connoisseur

Colour is a key jewellery trend for 2018, and there was plenty of it at VicenzaOro. Bright pops of enamel were layered over precious metals — the You’re So Vine collection by Milan-based jeweler Bea Bongiasca, with its shoots of purple, orange and green snaking around fine jewels, was a particular highlight. Other jewellers used lively ceramic plating to liven up their collections. The palate wasn’t just vivid and beautiful, however. Lashings of edgy, black rhodium plating were used to turn gold shades of dark blue or black, which created a dramatic background for diamonds, emeralds and sapphires.

Italy is a spiritual home for goldsmiths, with hundreds of craftspeople throughout the country using skills that have been passed down through generations. One of the newest techniques the Italians have mastered is flexible gold. Serpentine gold cuffs and rings stretch and wind around wrists and fingers, assisted by tiny wires of titanium within that help the jewels to snap back to their original shapes. Some have a knitted or woven appearance, while others look like precious coils. Nanis, which treats the surface of its gold to an etching process called bulino, hides the secret to its flexible jewels within, with no visible giveaways.

The democratisation of jewellery has led to an increasing number of unisex collections. This was evident at Vicenzaoro, and one of the strongest unisex trends was signet rings. Some were simple, with metal treated to a brushed finish for a contemporary look. More decadent offerings were smothered in full gemstone pavé (or rough diamonds fused to gold in the case of Honor Omano) or featured large diamonds in place of the traditional insignia. Wear them on a pinky or an index finger for different looks, regardless of whether you team them with a dress or a three-piece suit — it’s a one-trend-fits-all scenario…

This story was originally published on Jewelry Connoisseur. Read the full story here. Main image: Nanis

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