© Written by Rachael Taylor for JewelleryNetAsia
Last week we had an electrifying five days in London as the city was once again taken over by London Fashion Week (LFW), an event famous for championing the freshest design talent. While most eyes were on the clothes during the Autumn/Winter 2015 catwalk shows, mine were on the finer details and a few key jewellery trends emerged.
Hoops proved to be popular among fashion designers choosing to accessorise collections with jewellery this season. Issa took the concept further than most with simple gold hoops on models’ wrists and elbows, on both arms in a Grecian style, and also as necklaces and earrings. Other designers stuck to a pair of simple hoop earrings, among them Lucas Nascimento who offset a deep V-necked floral sweater with a chin-grazing pair as well as dressing models in bronzed neck hoops, and Ashish who dressed a wide diversity of models in silver ear hoops ranging from jaw length to collar length. The majority of designers linked multiple hoops together to create longer shapes, such as Jonathan Saunders’ shoulder-length earrings made up of three graduating black, silver and white hoops.
- MISMATCHED EARRINGS
They say not all things in life are created equal, and this was definitely the intention of some LFW designers when it came to earrings. JW Anderson sent models down the runway with one large triangular earring on the right lobe and anything from a perspex fold to a metallic hoop on the left, so long as it didn’t match. Vivienne Westwood’s Red Label also enjoyed playing with odd ear baubles, adding even more drama around the paint-splashed models’ faces with a selection of curiosities that included chains decorated with paper clips and what appeared to be glittering dog bones.
The recently revived choker continued to be a feature of many AW15 LFW runway shows. Julien MacDonald kept it simple with retro-esque thick, black material chokers while Vivienne Westwood Red Label tapped into the brand’s punk heritage with a selection of chokers and short colliers that took inspiration from dog collars, tools, chains and spikes. Simone Rocha threw in a couple of single and double chokers made from beads but mainly interpreted the trend by winding strands of the models’ hair round their necks. Also at the avant garde end of the spectrum was Giles’ gothic Victoriana show that included a standalone ruff choker and ruff cuffs.
The catwalks for AW15 were awash with all-black ensembles, and some designers extended this theme to jewellery. Julien MacDonald created darkly alluring jewels to complement black and jewel-toned eveningwear that included necklaces and earrings made out of glossy, blackened metal wound into fluid lines. Simone Rocha also ramped up the glamour of evening collections with black jewels made from shiny oversized faceted beads, wrapped round necks and dropping from ears, to tie in with jewel embellishments on the clothing.
While brooches tend to straddle the fashion and jewellery genres, many jewellers still create them and if the LFW catwalks are anything to go by, we could be seeing demand for them rise in AW15. The design of the brooches was as varied as where they were placed – pinned to coats, buttoned on dresses and taking the place of ties on shirts. Vivienne Westwood Red Label offset the chaos of its punk-inspired collections with pretty antique-style silver and pearl brooches on the lapels of coats and collars of shirts, while Bora Aksu positioned big floral crystal brooches over shirts’ top buttons and Sibling used two brooches connected by a chain to close its cardigans and jackets.
This article was originally published on JewelleryNetAsia on 04.03.15. I write a weekly column for this website about global jewellery trends.